Origin and General Characteristics
The bearded dragon is an increasingly popular lizard among reptile enthusiasts, and for good reason. One of the main reasons is that it is relatively hardy and easy to keep in captivity. Additionally, they are quite calm and rarely tend to bite or scratch.
The bearded dragon is primarily native to the Australian continent and has a semi-arboreal existence. It lives in quite varied habitats, ranging from deserts to forests, including scrubland (savannahs). It spends most of the morning and late afternoon searching for food, while remaining mostly hidden during the hottest part of the day. Its life expectancy varies depending on its health and conditions of captivity, but generally it is between 8 and 12 years. Another interesting element is that the bearded dragon will never become too imposing. Additionally, his social temperament makes him a good pet.
Adult size |
30-60 cm depending on the species |
Humidity |
About 40% |
Lighting |
UV 10-12 hours/day |
Difficulty |
Ideal for beginners |
|
Hot spot (degrees Celsius) |
Cold point (degrees Celsius) |
Day |
33-36 |
28 |
Night |
22 |
20 |
Life in Captivity
It is important to monitor the daily temperature using a digital thermometer, which is often available at hardware stores. Humidity should also be monitored with a hygrometer. To increase the temperature, a heat lamp and a heating plate under the terrarium are recommended.
The terrarium should have two hiding places—one on each side—to provide a secure environment. We advise keeping only one male per terrarium to prevent territorial conflicts.
The UV light should be positioned approximately 30 cm away from the lizard, unless otherwise specified by the manufacturer. However, there should be no direct access to the light, and no glass or plastic should be placed between the neon and the lizard, as this significantly reduces the amount of UV rays the lizard will absorb.
Adding several large branches or rocks is beneficial, as they allow the bearded dragon to climb and get closer to heat sources and UV lighting.
Exposure to UVA-UVB lighting for 10–12 hours per day is essential for the survival of this species, as bearded dragons are diurnal. Most UV neon lights have a lifespan of only 6 to 8 months. Even if they still emit light, their UV radiation output significantly decreases over time. Therefore, it is important to replace them without delay.
For the terrarium substrate, options such as a lawn mat, felt mat, or even paper towels are recommended. Avoid using sand, cat litter, corn cob, or certain wood shavings, as these materials can be ingested and may cause intestinal blockages.
Lastly, we recommend purchasing a precise scale (accurate to the nearest gram) to monitor your bearded dragon’s weight on a weekly basis.
Nutrition
Don't hesitate to provide a varied and balanced diet for your bearded dragon. High-quality, diverse foods are essential for its health.
Young bearded dragons are omnivorous, while adults are primarily herbivorous with some insects in their diet. As they grow, the proportion of vegetables in their diet increases, as does the size of the insects they consume. Juveniles should be fed daily with appropriately sized insects—the length of the insect should not exceed the width of the dragon’s head. They can also be given dark leafy vegetables. To make insects more nutritious, feed them calcium-rich foods such as dark leafy greens, high-quality cat or dog food, supplements, fruit, and water (in jelly or a sponge). Just before feeding, dust the insects with supplements.
Adult bearded dragons should be fed every 24–48 hours, with a diet consisting mostly of vegetables (about 80%) and some insects (about 20%). A variety of vegetables should be provided daily, including leafy greens, coleslaw mix, spinach, carrots, cilantro, alfalfa, and commercial iguana/bearded dragon pellets. Fruit can be offered occasionally as a treat.
Vitamin and calcium supplements are important for both young and adult bearded dragons. Adults should receive supplements once or twice a week, while juveniles need them 2–3 times per week. Anima-Plus Hospitals recommend Rep-Cal D3 and Herptivite, both available on-site.
For hydration, place a small, shallow bowl of water on the cool side of the enclosure, but only provide it 2–3 times per week. Another way to keep your dragon hydrated is by misting its vegetables with water before feeding.
Health Problems
Burns can occur when a bearded dragon comes into direct contact with heating elements. Common causes include heated rocks inside the terrarium or heat lamps that the animal can reach.
- Vitamin and calcium deficiency and lack of exposure to UVA-UVB neon
- Dermatitis
- Reproduction problem
- Impaction caused by ingested sand
- Intestinal parasites
As with all other animals, a pre-purchase examination carried out by an AnimaPlus veterinarian and then an annual examination is recommended.
A Quick Note About Salmonellosis
If you own a reptile, you've likely heard about salmonellosis. First, it's important to know that salmonellosis is a zoonotic disease, meaning it can be transmitted from animals to humans. Salmonella can be contracted in various ways, including through contaminated chicken meat, aquarium fish, turtles, and other reptiles.
Those most at risk include children, the elderly, and individuals with weakened immune systems. Symptoms in humans can include diarrhea, fever, nausea, and other digestive issues.
To prevent the spread of this bacteria, it's essential to follow basic hygiene practices. Be cautious when handling raw meat, cleaning aquariums or terrariums (avoid doing so in the bathroom or kitchen), and interacting with animals—not just reptiles, but also mammals and birds, as they can carry Salmonella as well.
The best prevention is thorough handwashing before and after handling animals. Regular cleaning and disinfection of enclosures and equipment will significantly reduce the risk of contamination.