Leopard Gecko – General Advice

Origin and General Characteristics

The leopard gecko is the most popular lizard in the gecko family. It is native to semi-desert regions, including Pakistan, Afghanistan, Iran, and India. This nocturnal, terrestrial species has a bright yellow to purplish background with black spots, while its underside is cream-colored. As an adult, it grows to approximately 25 cm in length, with an elongated body and grainy-textured skin that feels silky to the touch. On average, leopard geckos live around 15 years, but those kept in excellent conditions can surpass 20 years.

Life in Captivity

The leopard gecko is an ideal lizard for beginners due to its relatively easy care requirements. One advantage is that it tends to relieve itself in the same spot, making cleanup more manageable. While it is possible to house a male with females, this is not recommended. However, two males should never be kept together, as they are highly territorial and will fight to the death.

The gecko's terrarium should be terrestrial, desert-like, and well-ventilated. The ideal substrate is artificial grass, which helps prevent injuries often caused by sand. The minimum recommended terrarium size for one or two geckos is 15 gallons. There must be a designated hot side and a cool side. A heat mat should be placed under half of the terrarium, and a heat lamp should be used on the same side during the day. UVA-UVB lighting is not necessary, as leopard geckos are primarily nocturnal. At night, the lamp should be turned off to allow the temperature to drop. The daytime temperature should be maintained between 26°C and 32°C, while nighttime temperatures should drop to around 22°C.

Small, gecko-sized hiding places should be provided on both the warm and cool sides of the terrarium to reduce stress by giving the gecko places to retreat. For humidity, a moist area is necessary to aid in shedding, ideally inside one of the hiding places. Sphagnum moss (commonly used for orchids) helps retain humidity and is available pre-moistened at hardware stores. The moss should be cleaned once a week for hygiene purposes. The recommended humidity level is around 30-40%. A digital thermometer, available at hardware stores, can help monitor temperature and humidity.

Lastly, we recommend purchasing a precise scale (accurate to the nearest gram) to track your gecko’s weight on a weekly basis.

Nutrition

The leopard gecko is an insectivore, it can eat crickets, but also waxworms, silkworms, butterworms and mealworms, alive or dead. Adult geckos can also be fed baby mice. It is advisable to feed the insects well before giving it to your gecko (example: cat/dog food, fruits, vegetables, water). A vitamin and mineral supplement should be given 2 to 3 times per week for growing animals and 1 to 2 times per week for adult animals. We recommend using a 1:1 mix of Rep-Cal-D3 products with Herptivite. Insects or mice can be soaked in the supplements to aid absorption. Finally, fresh water must also be provided every day.

Common Problems

• Burns caused by heating elements in direct contact with the gecko such as heat rocks. Tail torn off by direct traction Vitamin and calcium deficiency.
• Impaction due to ingested sand.
• Moult retention
• As with all other animals, a pre-purchase examination carried out by an AnimaPlus veterinarian and then an annual examination is recommended.

A Quick Note About Salmonellosis

If you own a reptile, you've likely heard about salmonellosis. First, it's important to know that salmonellosis is a zoonotic disease, meaning it can be transmitted from animals to humans. Salmonella can be contracted in various ways, including through contaminated chicken meat, aquarium fish, turtles, and other reptiles.

Those most at risk include children, the elderly, and individuals with weakened immune systems. Symptoms in humans can include diarrhea, fever, nausea, and other digestive issues.

To prevent the spread of this bacteria, it's essential to follow basic hygiene practices. Be cautious when handling raw meat, cleaning aquariums or terrariums (avoid doing so in the bathroom or kitchen), and interacting with animals—not just reptiles, but also mammals and birds, as they can carry Salmonella as well.

The best prevention is thorough handwashing before and after handling animals. Regular cleaning and disinfection of enclosures and equipment will significantly reduce the risk of contamination.

References:

Johnson-Delaney C, Harrison L. Exotic Companion Medicine Handbook for Veterinarians. Éditions Lake Worth , FL : Wingers Pub. 1996. Mader D. Reptile Medicine and Surgery. : W.B Saunders Company, Philadelphia. 2005

Aulio R, Daoues K, Gérard P, Hussard N. Atlas de la terrariophilie. Volume 3, Les lézards. Éditions Animalia, UE. 2003